Kauffman Says ‘I’ll Be Damned’ About Thermidor; Reidinger Enjoys Brisas de Acapulco

Jonathan Kauffman takes a crack at Thermidor this week, right after Unterman's rave. He writes that "the decor seems of a piece with the [1950s-inspired] menu," and he loved the warm, golden, Parker House rolls that, like the popovers at...